Sunday, February 16, 2014

Ulysse Nardin San Marco GMT± 223-88


I am sailing....with Ulysse Nardin GMT±


"I am sailing, I am sailing,
Home again cross the sea.
I am sailing, stormy waters,
To be near you, to be free."

A song that was so beautifully sang by Rod Stewart... That's how I felt whenever I encounter the brand Ulysse Nardin. The first time, I went into an Ulysse Nardin bontique, I was impressed and inspired by its naval and ship theme decoration...... Have to mention, the Public Relation Manager was super friendly, helpful and gorgeous sexy looking......

Founded in 1846, Ulysse Nardin was named after its founder, Ulysse Nardin, an accomplished watchmaker. In its over 165 years of history, Ulysse Nardin had been widely respected as a specialist in marine chronometers.Since 1846 the company has walked away with 4324 awards among which 18 highly coveted gold medals.


In 1994, Ulysee Nardin invented the GMT± with its signature plus and minus pushers to adjust instantly the hour hand to another local time; and the "Home time" window at 9 o'clock which displays the time at home when one is traveling abroad. The home time display shows the time in digits from 1 to 24 so you will always know whether it is a.m. or p.m. The GMT± Dual Time can be adjusted to a different local time without taking the watch off the wrist. In 1995, Ulysee Nardin introduced the Big Date double window display for easy reading of the date. The date can be adjusted quickly forward or backward using the crown.


One day a watchmaker friend sent me an email and asking whether I would like to own this used Ulysse Nardin San Marcos GMT ± Big Date with black dial and nice tritium lumed Arabic numerals? He was offering a price that I could not refuse or too good to refuse....... This is a well crafted time piece, and the attention to detail is excellent.

The 40mm stainless steel case is highly polished stainless steel and it is very well mirror finished. It measures 11.5mm in thickness. Even the space between the lugs and the inside surface of the lugs are immaculate. The crystal is anti-reflective coated domed sapphire. The hands are dauphne shaped with a generous tritium inlay. The second hand has a bright yellow tip.


The screw-down crown is protected by shoulders in the case, and the crown has a tiny yet perfectly engraved UN anchor logo with a beautiful blue material applied to add a bit of color and sparkle. I always thought that it is a sapphire or some precious stone... How wrong I was!!!


This watch is equipped with a stainless steel bracelet that is highly polished at the top, and nicely brushed at the back. 


The bracelet has a butterfly  deployment clasp and is signed with insignia. A series of links on either side of the buckle are held in place with screws that can be removed to size the bracelet.


The case back is of solid stainless steel and has the Lion of San Marco figure shown in relief. Each watch is engraved with a serial number. The case back is held in place with six small screws. The watch is rated water resistant to 100 meters.


Photo belows showed The lion of Venice of the Basilica of San Marco.



This watch is powered by self-winding UN-22 movement, and it is based on an ETA 2892-A2. The base 2892 movement contains 64 parts. Ulysse Nardin adds another 79 parts in-house to create the final movement consisting of 143 parts. This movement has 23 jewels and is tuned to 28,800 oscillations per hour, with 48 hours power reserve. A bit disappointed with the detailing works on UN-22 movement finishing..... At the retailing price, it warrants a bit more gold plating, polishing and highlighting.....



The GMT ± Big Date combines two of Ulysse Nardin's patented complications in one watch: the oversized double disk date and the hour hand adjusted via pusher buttons, with 24 hour home time display which can also serve as a second time zone. This watch is intended for frequent travellers. Most important, maybe the only few Ulysse Nardin watches that I could barely afford. 


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